40 do's and don'ts from our workshop
Everything we see in the workshop, week in week out — what you can safely do yourself, and what's better left to us. Grouped by topic so you can find what applies to you.
An e-bike asks a little more of you than a regular bicycle — not because it's fragile, but because there's more going on: a battery that rewards good habits, a motor and sensors that dislike damp and grit, and parts that work harder given the extra weight and speed. Most faults we see in the workshop aren't a broken part — they're a small habit quietly working against the bike.
New to cycling in the Netherlands? You'll ride year-round, in wind and rain, often parking outdoors near canals, and bike theft is real here. That doesn't mean constant fuss, but a few habits pay off more than elsewhere. Below are do's and don'ts from our workshop in Nieuw-Vennep — some obvious, some easy to miss, like why a pressure washer is a bad idea, or why "just pedal through it" is exactly wrong when shifting a hub gear.
Most of this applies to any daily-use city e-bike, regardless of brand. Where something is Bosch-specific or gear-type specific, we've flagged it. Links to our in-depth pages per component are at the bottom.
Small habits that cost almost no time but make a real difference.
A thumb-press or a pump with a gauge is enough. Soft tyres add resistance and puncture more easily.
✓ DoMake sure the levers bite properly and don't pull back to the bar.
✓ DoFront, rear, battery and connection — avoids surprises once it gets dark, which is early for much of the Dutch year.
✓ DoHigh-pressure water forces past the seals on hub motors, hub gears and bearings.
✕ Don'tA garden hose on low pressure, a soft brush and a little soapy water for grime is safer.
✓ DoHandlebar, saddle, rack: a loose bolt is easier to catch in a quick check than mid-ride.
✓ DoOiling over caked-on grime works an abrasive paste into the mechanism.
✓ DoThe battery is the single most expensive part of your e-bike — the right habits demonstrably extend its life.
Gentler on the battery than repeatedly running it flat and charging to full each time.
✓ DoDeep discharge speeds up capacity loss over the battery's lifetime.
✕ Don'tA different current rating (2A, 4A, 6A) than your battery needs can affect charging, and sometimes your warranty.
✓ DoOver winter, for example — this is how a battery best retains capacity in storage.
✓ DoDon't leave it in full sun or a freezing shed — both speed up ageing.
✕ Don'tDirt or moisture on battery or charger contacts causes charging faults and error messages.
✓ DoBring it to us or an official Stibat/Wecycle point — e-bike batteries can be a fire risk.
✓ DoCovers derailleurs and hub gears such as Shimano Nexus/Alfine and Enviolo.
A thin film is enough; wipe off the excess after a few minutes.
✓ DoToo much oil attracts more dirt, which speeds up wear rather than preventing it.
✕ Don'tA chain-wear gauge shows in time if it's stretched — a stretched chain wears the chainring and cassette too.
✓ DoOn Nexus, Alfine or Enviolo, the smoothest shifts come with less pedal pressure, not by pedalling harder.
✓ DoOn derailleur or hub gears alike, pedalling hard through a shift adds wear and sometimes damage.
✕ Don'tEspecially on Bosch mid-drives, a loose crank bolt eventually damages the bottom bracket.
✓ DoA closed guard or chain glider keeps dirt out, but a stray stone inside can cause tapping.
✓ DoThe heavier weight and higher speed of an e-bike put more strain on brakes and tyres than on a regular bike.
Follow the value on the tyre sidewall. Too low significantly increases puncture risk and rolling resistance.
✓ DoE-bikes brake harder given the extra weight and speed — replace worn parts before they're a problem.
✓ DoUsually worn pads or a misadjusted brake — both are quick fixes with a targeted check.
✕ Don'tA slightly out-of-true wheel is usually fixable without a full replacement — the sooner, the cheaper.
✓ DoRoughly once every one to two years, oil and seals need replacing — they age even unnoticed.
✓ DoBleeding and connecting hydraulic brakes is precision, safety-critical work — leave this to the workshop.
✕ Don'tA short check saves you a puncture at exactly the wrong moment.
✓ DoIf you're new here: outdoor bike parking near canals, wind off the water and road salt in winter are all part of Dutch cycling life.
Noticeably reduces rust, corrosion and cable/rubber ageing versus parking outdoors.
✓ DoVisibly speeds up wear on bearings, cables and electronics.
✕ Don'tSalt is aggressive on metal parts and the chain — a quick rinse pays off.
✓ DoPrevents vibration damage, and makes the bike lighter to lift.
✓ DoLeaning it on the display or controls can damage cables and connectors.
✕ Don'tWith a loaded rack or cargo bike, this prevents tip-overs and display damage.
✓ DoBike theft is common in Dutch cities. A good lock with an ART star rating, locked to something fixed, matters as much as any tip above — some insurers require a minimum rating to pay out.
Anything touching the motor, battery or display on a Bosch system needs official dealer software — this is genuine workshop territory.
Cables and spokes can still need a tweak at this stage; an early service prevents bigger issues later.
✓ DoAs a guideline: once a year, or every 1,500–3,000 km depending on mileage. Check your manual for specifics.
✓ DoAn interrupted drive-system update can leave it temporarily unusable — we do this with the correct dealer software.
✓ DoA Bosch system needs specific dealer software for this — it's genuinely workshop-only work.
✕ Don'tThis saves diagnosis time in the workshop, and sometimes you'll already know what's up.
✓ DoBrakes, steering, forks, frame: DIY here can genuinely go wrong. See our workshop rates.
✕ Don'tNot every brand below is something we stock — this is background so you know what you're looking at.
Bosch mid-drives power around 80% of what we sell; other common brands include Shimano, Yamaha and Bafang.
Derailleurs (Shimano/SRAM) versus hub gears such as Shimano Nexus/Alfine, Enviolo and Rohloff — each shifts differently.
Hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes from Shimano, Magura and Tektro are standard on most e-bikes.
A Hebie Chainglider is the most common fully enclosed guard, keeping the chain clean with minimal upkeep.
Schwalbe and Continental make puncture-resistant tyres popular here; check the sidewall for size and pressure.
Use a bicycle-specific chain oil, not household oil, which attracts grit and washes off in rain.
Look for an ART star rating (1–4 stars); Dutch insurers often set a minimum.
Stibat/Wecycle is the official Dutch collection scheme for batteries — never bin them.
Gazelle, Sparta, Batavus, Cortina, Koga, Cube, Riese & Müller, Kalkhoff, Stella, Qwic, HNF, Trek, plus cargo brands Urban Arrow, Lovens and Babboe.
Service interval — recommended time or distance between two maintenance visits.
Chain-wear gauge — a tool measuring how much a chain has stretched through wear.
Deep discharge — running a battery down to near 0% repeatedly, accelerating wear.
Stibat / Wecycle — the Dutch collection scheme for batteries and e-bike batteries.
Hub gear — gearing built into the rear hub (e.g. Shimano Nexus or Enviolo), unlike a derailleur.
Wheel truing — correcting a slight wobble ("figure of eight") without replacing the wheel.
Dealer software — specialist software for reading and updating a motor, battery and display like Bosch's.
Error code — a code the drive system shows when something's wrong.
Chain glider — a fully enclosed guard, typically Hebie, shielding the chain from dirt and rain.
Gross vehicle weight — the maximum permitted combined weight of bike, rider and luggage.
Contact points — the metal connection points between battery, bike and charger.
Brake pads — the replaceable friction material in a disc or rim brake.
ART rating — a lock security rating from 1 to 4 stars, often required by insurers.
Mid-drive motor — a motor in the bottom bracket, driving through the chain or belt (e.g. Bosch).
Honestly, and without upselling you on things you don't need.
Message us your brand, model and rough mileage and we'll tell you honestly if it's time for a service. Pricing is on our repairs & workshop rates page.
How often should I get my e-bike serviced?
As a guideline: once a year, or every 1,500 to 3,000 km. Book the first service after roughly 300 to 500 km, since cables and spokes often still need a tweak.
Can I clean my e-bike with a pressure washer?
We'd advise against it — high-pressure water can force past the seals on the hub motor, hub gear and bearings. A gentle hose stream and a soft brush is safer.
What's the best way to charge the battery?
For everyday use, charging between roughly 20 and 80% is best for battery life. For long storage, keep it at around 30 to 60% charge at room temperature.
Can I do maintenance on my e-bike myself?
Yes — tyre pressure, cleaning, chain lubrication and bolt checks are fine yourself. Brakes, steering, forks, frame or the motor/battery/display system are workshop territory.
Why won't my hub gear shift smoothly?
Usually because there's still pressure on the pedals during the shift. Ease off and it should click through. If it stays stiff, the cable may need attention.
Where do I recycle an old e-bike battery in the Netherlands?
Bring it to us or an official Stibat/Wecycle collection point. E-bike batteries should never go in household waste, partly due to fire safety.
What does an average service cost?
That depends on what's needed. For a current overview, see our repairs page.
Nederlandse versie: e-bike-onderhoud-tips-dos-donts
Book your e-bike in at our workshop in Nieuw-Vennep, or ask us first on WhatsApp — we speak English.
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